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I tried, and really enjoyed, a new thing! Here is what I learned: you should try it too! I’m serious. This was all kinds of fun.
You can buy a “stretcher” which can be between $100 and $200. But Lee and I made one. I didn’t want to invest too much money until I knew that I would like it. Hey, I’m on a budget here!
You can make one using an inexpensive canvas stretcher from Michaels. We built ours from scrap wood and carpet tack strips.
Traditional rug hooking is worked on a linen or monk’s cloth (because it holds up to being walked on for years and years) using wool yarn or wool fabric strips. The tool is like a hook.
Grab your pattern here and give it a shot!
Rug hooking is not to confused with latch hook rugs. Remember doing this when we were young? Two big differences are 1) latch hook yard comes in short precut lengths, and 2) there is a latch on the hook.
With traditional rug hooking you are working on the right side of the rug pulling loops up with your tool from a long continuous yarn or fabric.
Using a punch tool typically means you are working on the wrong side of the rug punch loops down into your backing fabric. Both sides could really be used as the “right side”, one side being flat and the other being plush and loopy!
And finally, if you use a really small punch needle and embroidery floss, and you punch into a finer weave of linen or weaver’s cloth, it’s called “punch embroidery”.
The last explanation of rug making is what I’ve been doing.
You can make wall hangings on burlap. They don’t need to have the serious backing fabric because they aren’t going on the floor. That is what I did.
Rug 1 & Rug 2 - The plush or loop side
Rug 1 & Rug 2 - The flat side